Lock Installation
in Arleta

Can you add a lock to a door that has no hole in it?

Yes, that's a routine job for us. When there's no existing bore, we measure the backset, mark the center on the edge and face, and cut the deadbolt and latch holes ourselves with the right hole saws. The trick is keeping everything square and on center so the bolt lines up with the frame and throws all the way without forcing. We do this regularly on side doors and converted spaces around Arleta that came with only a knob.

What grade of deadbolt should I get?

For a home, a Grade 2 deadbolt covers most people well and is the common choice. If it's an exterior door that takes a beating or you just want the stronger option, Grade 1 is built tougher and rated for more cycles and force. Honestly, the grade of the lock matters less than how the strike side is anchored, so we'll talk through both and match the lock to the door rather than upselling you on a number.

Do you reinforce the strike plate too?

We push for it on almost every install. Most break-ins in Valley neighborhoods like Arleta don't defeat the lock at all; the frame splits because the standard strike is held by short screws into soft jamb wood. We swap in a heavier plate and use three-inch screws that reach the framing stud behind the jamb. That one change does more against a kick-in than a more expensive lock would.

Smart lock or a traditional keyed one?

Both work fine on a properly prepped door. A keyed deadbolt is simple, has nothing to charge or update, and never locks you out over a dead battery. A smart lock lets you skip keys, give codes to family or a cleaner, and check whether you locked up from your phone. We install either. If you go smart, we still reinforce the strike and recommend keeping a physical key backup somewhere safe.