Lock Installation
in Newhall

Can you add a lock to a door that has no hole drilled in it?

Yes, that is one of our most common Newhall calls. A door with no existing bore just means we start from scratch: we mark the template at the height and backset you want, drill the face and edge bores ourselves, and cut the latch and strike pockets. Solid-core doors take a little longer than hollow ones, but we carry the bits and the deadbolt to finish it the same visit so the door is never left open with a half-drilled hole.

What grade of deadbolt should I install?

For a front or side entry, we steer most Newhall homeowners toward a Grade 1 or strong Grade 2 deadbolt with a one-inch throw. Grade 1 is the heaviest residential rating and shrugs off prying far better than the builder-basic locks that come on new units. Interior or low-traffic doors can run a lighter grade and save money. We will tell you which doors actually need the upgrade instead of selling you the most expensive lock on every opening.

Why does the strike plate matter so much?

Because that is the part that gives way in a kick-in. The lock body can be excellent, but if the strike plate is held by two short screws into soft trim, the whole thing tears out of the jamb under a hard kick. We reinforce the strike with a heavier plate and three-inch screws that reach the wall stud behind the frame, so force gets driven into framing instead of splitting the doorway. It is the cheapest meaningful upgrade we install.

Should I go smart lock or stick with a traditional deadbolt?

Both work well in Newhall homes; it depends on how you live. A traditional keyed deadbolt is simpler, needs no batteries, and is the most reliable in a power outage. A smart lock adds keypad or phone access, which is handy for older parts of town where you might be sharing access with family or a contractor. If you go smart, we still install a mechanical deadbolt-grade bolt underneath and reinforce the strike the same way, so the security does not depend on the electronics.